It's running! :)

Back att http://www.vwkd.co.uk the member "13 Window deluxe" came with the idea to check that I might have the pump 180 degrees of. And guess what - he was so right!
How the heck could I miss that simple problem?! I had the solution in front of me all the time. First try after the adjustment and it started right away!

 

Now, the image I posted the other day with the pump position was wrong, I removed it so it's not fooling anyone. I'll take a new picture with correct info tomorrow.

Trying to get the thing running!

Hooked the engine up with the pickup battery outside the garage. Tried to fire it and - nope! 

The engine cranks and starts on starter gas, but I have only tried a small spray every time (not continuously).
The pump is pushing fuel to the first cylinder on TDC.
...which means that the stop solenoid is working as well.
Timing set according to Land Rover spec, 1.54 mm.
When the fuel lines are loosened at the injectores they spit fuel.

I see fuel in the return lines between the injectors.
I see no fuel in the main return line (but the fuel lines do spray).

It might be that there's still air in the nossles. I've read from other people that their engines got started after testing the injectors, and then they are filled with fuel. There might also still be air in the lines or in the injectors.  I'll open up the glow plugs and bleed one injector at the time to see if there's any difference.
More crankin' tomorrow...

Timing time!

Lately I've been assembling everything back onto the engine. It required some detective work to get the timing on the pump right. I mounted the belt wheel from the 1Z on the Landy pump and thought that the timing position would be the same. Oh no...

The timing was terrible and when I went back home to eat some late night dinner I did some googleing and then I found some clips on a very-known-tube-site when a guy changed timing belt on a Landy, the angle of the pump was really weird and got my attention. Back in the garage I checked the Landy wheel mount disc (the LR has a movable wheel for timing, the VW has a fixed wheel and a moveable pump instead) and there was a clear sign where the woodruff key had been and it was totally different from the VW.

 It all ended up with the timing being 180 degrees off from the VW pump. The woodruff key is now pointing straight towards the old VW timing hole on the bracket, and the timing hole in the belt wheel is totally opposite.

EDIT 27/7: This was all wrong, the pump was 180 degrees of! See later posts for correct info! 

I did a temporarly timing tool with a long soldering pin and my electronic calliper. Worked like a charm!

Turbo rebuild last night

I had to wait for some paint to dry on a surfboard so I took a break from the board shop and decided to start the turbo rebuild - which ended up in a complete rebuild. Once started it's really easy to service them, they have a clever design and with some patience, the right tools and optionally a guide it doesn't take much time. From that I started to disassemble the turbo from the engine until it was complete again was about 2 hours including coffee break.
So, go for it if you need a better turbo! I bought a repair kit on eBay for a very good price that included all parts needed, and even more. The kit is delivered with all parts needed for any GT15 turbo so there will be heaps of pieces left.
I used following tools:
 12 and 10 mm 12-star sockets.
 10 and 8 mm wrenches.
 Torx size 30 and 25.
 A flat screw driver.
 A small screw driver for rinsing the internals.

I printed a guide from the Internet on a turbo rebuild, it was not the same turbo as I did but was good enough as a reminder. Then, go!

I found a crack in the exhaust turbine housing. It could have happened when I punched the housing of but I don't think so. Anyway, after some investigation I decided to use the housing. The crack is not critical and if pieces will come off they will not damage the engine, only the turbine.


Next exercise will be investigation of crank and cam positions.

I just like this picture

That's all.

Too few hours left...

Been too busy to take care of the engine swap and last days I've been up north visiting family. Well, if you need more hours with daylight you better move to the northen parts of Sweden. The picture is taken a rainy night - 30 minutes after midnight.

I did have time to fix the front plastics last week, some cracks here and there so I reinforced everything with polyester and glass fibre and then painted with a new layer of half matte black. Pretty good result I think. I also managed to finally mount the central locking system. The door locks are completely removed, the handles are filled with chemical metal and repainted. That turned out pretty good too. Now I'm able to park outside the garage again. :)

I'm pretty busy coming weeks before the family leaves on holiday, so the swap has to wait a little bit more. It seems I might be alone one week and the darn I'll be working in the garage! Maybe I'll get some hours free before and then I'll do the turbo rebuild.

 

Before 'n' after

  

Well, this is how it turned out. I'm very satisfied with the result and the driving is now so much better than with the old slushy tyres. I'm just going to make some center caps (the originals doesn't fit with the grease cup) then the wheel project is done. I think I'll make something in carbon fibre like a uge center bolt cover. In the end that's what I do anyway everytime I'm in the workshop. :)

To you guys outside Sweden, these pictures were taken at 10 am last night. When I went home past midnight it was still bright.

Finally tyres done!

Well, it was about time. I've finally got the longer studs and bolts I've been waiting for - just to find out that they don't fit...



The splines are different, the splines are wider and the end radius too wide causing the studs to not go to the bottom.

Anyway, the differences were "managable" and with some grinding and brute force (sledge is the word here) they got into the hubs anyway.

So this morning I went to a tyre store and got the tyres mounted. I was a little bit worried that the tyres should cause problem, they're C-class tyres and stiff like crazy and just a tiny bit wider than the 7 inch wide rims. In the end it turned out pretty good! Instead of have the usual "bulky" fat heavy duty tyre look the sides were pushed out and the rubber got straight. I wouldn't say they look like racing tyres, but much better than I expected.

Tonight - put 'em on the pickup time!

Turbo rebuild kit

Turbo rebuilding weekend! :)

Spacers needed, and other bolts.

The rims are 16x7" ET 45, and it's known that the ET is too high to fit directly. The images are taken with 10 mm spacers, so the effective ET is now at 35. It seems many people are using spacers to get down at ET 30 or even lower, but I don't see any other reason than getting the wheel further out (which on the other hand looks better on the Caravelle). For me it's enough with a moderate adustment. I'll go with 10 mm in front and 5 mm in the rear. The rear spacer is actually not needed but the bolts I've found are long enough and I have the spacers. Easy choice.

I think I'll make new center caps instead of modifying the old ones. One idea was to pop out the VW logo and replace it with something else. Like a fake center nut. But if I'm going to make the fake nut I can make new caps. Why not go the whole way?..