Mind ache and anxiety

The pickup is gone, and I still believe she's gone forever.
Shall I get a Caravelle instead?..

Can't believe it - she's stolen!

Parked at home saturday evening after getting material for the terrace. Sunday morning a neighbour did see a van stopped by it and they investigated my pickup and then took it. :(
It was too planned to be a ugly-theft. I think I've seen the pickup for the last time. Could be in Poland already, or on the way to Africa...

R.I.P. my dear.

Water pump removal without removing timing belt...

...is possible. :)

Relubricating bearings

Haven't done much lately, we had another VW last week. Namely a new kid. :)
I was in the workshop this night and while waiting for some clear coat on a bike frame to harden I relubricated the belt tensioners. It's really easy and they last a long time this way. Actually, a Subaru mechanic nearby told me he never change them, and no one has come back with a broken tensioner. 

Clean the outside of the bearing really well, don't have dirt left on the front side. Take a small screwdriver and gently press the edge in under the rubber sealing. Make this happen at the inner edge of the seal. Then carefully pull and the rubber will pop out. The big tensioner is easy, but the small roller on top of the diesel pump wheel is a little more difficult as the rubber is deep down. If the sealing bends, be gentle and bend it back to a flat again. Refill the bearing with grease, clean the sealing and press it back. Be sure it really jumps back into its position.
The same goes with the water pump/alternator tensioner, rubber of and grease in.

Of course, this procedure is a lot easier when the cam belt is off and then the bearings can be flushed with spray as well AND refilled from both sides. But this time I did it afterwards from the front side only and it worked too.

Now I'm thinking - again - that the water pump might need a replacement. It feels "dry" when rotating. But then I have to remove the cam belt one more time...

Pump position after tweaking

As promised in previous posts, this is what I ended up with. The pump is now timed perfectly and the engine starts easy and runs smooth.

Now, time for some baby delivery. Then engine swappin' time!

EDIT: Please read the updated timing setting here.

It's running! :)

Back att http://www.vwkd.co.uk the member "13 Window deluxe" came with the idea to check that I might have the pump 180 degrees of. And guess what - he was so right!
How the heck could I miss that simple problem?! I had the solution in front of me all the time. First try after the adjustment and it started right away!

 

Now, the image I posted the other day with the pump position was wrong, I removed it so it's not fooling anyone. I'll take a new picture with correct info tomorrow.

Trying to get the thing running!

Hooked the engine up with the pickup battery outside the garage. Tried to fire it and - nope! 

The engine cranks and starts on starter gas, but I have only tried a small spray every time (not continuously).
The pump is pushing fuel to the first cylinder on TDC.
...which means that the stop solenoid is working as well.
Timing set according to Land Rover spec, 1.54 mm.
When the fuel lines are loosened at the injectores they spit fuel.

I see fuel in the return lines between the injectors.
I see no fuel in the main return line (but the fuel lines do spray).

It might be that there's still air in the nossles. I've read from other people that their engines got started after testing the injectors, and then they are filled with fuel. There might also still be air in the lines or in the injectors.  I'll open up the glow plugs and bleed one injector at the time to see if there's any difference.
More crankin' tomorrow...

Timing time!

Lately I've been assembling everything back onto the engine. It required some detective work to get the timing on the pump right. I mounted the belt wheel from the 1Z on the Landy pump and thought that the timing position would be the same. Oh no...

The timing was terrible and when I went back home to eat some late night dinner I did some googleing and then I found some clips on a very-known-tube-site when a guy changed timing belt on a Landy, the angle of the pump was really weird and got my attention. Back in the garage I checked the Landy wheel mount disc (the LR has a movable wheel for timing, the VW has a fixed wheel and a moveable pump instead) and there was a clear sign where the woodruff key had been and it was totally different from the VW.

 It all ended up with the timing being 180 degrees off from the VW pump. The woodruff key is now pointing straight towards the old VW timing hole on the bracket, and the timing hole in the belt wheel is totally opposite.

EDIT 27/7: This was all wrong, the pump was 180 degrees of! See later posts for correct info! 

I did a temporarly timing tool with a long soldering pin and my electronic calliper. Worked like a charm!

Turbo rebuild last night

I had to wait for some paint to dry on a surfboard so I took a break from the board shop and decided to start the turbo rebuild - which ended up in a complete rebuild. Once started it's really easy to service them, they have a clever design and with some patience, the right tools and optionally a guide it doesn't take much time. From that I started to disassemble the turbo from the engine until it was complete again was about 2 hours including coffee break.
So, go for it if you need a better turbo! I bought a repair kit on eBay for a very good price that included all parts needed, and even more. The kit is delivered with all parts needed for any GT15 turbo so there will be heaps of pieces left.
I used following tools:
 12 and 10 mm 12-star sockets.
 10 and 8 mm wrenches.
 Torx size 30 and 25.
 A flat screw driver.
 A small screw driver for rinsing the internals.

I printed a guide from the Internet on a turbo rebuild, it was not the same turbo as I did but was good enough as a reminder. Then, go!

I found a crack in the exhaust turbine housing. It could have happened when I punched the housing of but I don't think so. Anyway, after some investigation I decided to use the housing. The crack is not critical and if pieces will come off they will not damage the engine, only the turbine.


Next exercise will be investigation of crank and cam positions.

I just like this picture

That's all.