The IC caught on camera

Sturdy. :)

Garage neighbours are good to have

Told my garage buddy that the small intercooler I have taken from the TDI donor was leaking, he started to dig around in his boxes and - tada!

A super rigid alu IC is now mine. He thought it was made for a Porsche but he wasn't sure. It's at least a German brand, that's for sure.

SHEEEEEEE's BAAAACK!!!

It's totally insane...
But she's back!

A guy from the Swedish vanagon club called me this afternoon and said: "Your bus is parked behind the MC store downtown, I recognized your rims". I told him to not move and drove like crazy down town and at the same time a friend that lives nearby biked to the place and jacked a bike lock in the front rim.

Broken ignition key. That's it. They've tried to take the wheels but failed! 

Now alarm, steering blocker and a electrical fence driver in the chassi...

Mind ache and anxiety

The pickup is gone, and I still believe she's gone forever.
Shall I get a Caravelle instead?..

Can't believe it - she's stolen!

Parked at home saturday evening after getting material for the terrace. Sunday morning a neighbour did see a van stopped by it and they investigated my pickup and then took it. :(
It was too planned to be a ugly-theft. I think I've seen the pickup for the last time. Could be in Poland already, or on the way to Africa...

R.I.P. my dear.

Water pump removal without removing timing belt...

...is possible. :)

Relubricating bearings

Haven't done much lately, we had another VW last week. Namely a new kid. :)
I was in the workshop this night and while waiting for some clear coat on a bike frame to harden I relubricated the belt tensioners. It's really easy and they last a long time this way. Actually, a Subaru mechanic nearby told me he never change them, and no one has come back with a broken tensioner. 

Clean the outside of the bearing really well, don't have dirt left on the front side. Take a small screwdriver and gently press the edge in under the rubber sealing. Make this happen at the inner edge of the seal. Then carefully pull and the rubber will pop out. The big tensioner is easy, but the small roller on top of the diesel pump wheel is a little more difficult as the rubber is deep down. If the sealing bends, be gentle and bend it back to a flat again. Refill the bearing with grease, clean the sealing and press it back. Be sure it really jumps back into its position.
The same goes with the water pump/alternator tensioner, rubber of and grease in.

Of course, this procedure is a lot easier when the cam belt is off and then the bearings can be flushed with spray as well AND refilled from both sides. But this time I did it afterwards from the front side only and it worked too.

Now I'm thinking - again - that the water pump might need a replacement. It feels "dry" when rotating. But then I have to remove the cam belt one more time...

Pump position after tweaking

As promised in previous posts, this is what I ended up with. The pump is now timed perfectly and the engine starts easy and runs smooth.

Now, time for some baby delivery. Then engine swappin' time!

EDIT: Please read the updated timing setting here.

It's running! :)

Back att http://www.vwkd.co.uk the member "13 Window deluxe" came with the idea to check that I might have the pump 180 degrees of. And guess what - he was so right!
How the heck could I miss that simple problem?! I had the solution in front of me all the time. First try after the adjustment and it started right away!

 

Now, the image I posted the other day with the pump position was wrong, I removed it so it's not fooling anyone. I'll take a new picture with correct info tomorrow.

Trying to get the thing running!

Hooked the engine up with the pickup battery outside the garage. Tried to fire it and - nope! 

The engine cranks and starts on starter gas, but I have only tried a small spray every time (not continuously).
The pump is pushing fuel to the first cylinder on TDC.
...which means that the stop solenoid is working as well.
Timing set according to Land Rover spec, 1.54 mm.
When the fuel lines are loosened at the injectores they spit fuel.

I see fuel in the return lines between the injectors.
I see no fuel in the main return line (but the fuel lines do spray).

It might be that there's still air in the nossles. I've read from other people that their engines got started after testing the injectors, and then they are filled with fuel. There might also still be air in the lines or in the injectors.  I'll open up the glow plugs and bleed one injector at the time to see if there's any difference.
More crankin' tomorrow...