Next upgrade - kickass gearbox

Nope. It's not a Vanagon gearbox. This is much better. :-)

012 EHV

TDI controller explained.

Ok, we have a Boot Camp at work this weekend. Not the army kind, the software kind. We are a big group of grown ups (believe it or not but the average age is closer to 40 than 20) that are isolated on an island with computers, potato chips and beer...
So I had this idea for a while to control a VP37 with a home made controller. The concept is "being able to make a conversion without ripping the electrics from the donor". The only parts needed are the engine and the accelerator pedal.
Right now I'm pretty on target. It took really long time to figure out the pins in the connector and to get the quantity adjuster moving. I need higher voltage out from my driver, except that I have the pump driven with an Arduino and a PWM driver kit from Velleman. Next thing to add is the feedback loop from the pump.
And then:
RPM triggering
Injector bank triggering
Advance table
Boost control
Temperature adjustment

Doable? Oh yes, I'm on it!

Tdi controller project

More to come...

Finest Gipsy ever?

I found this one at the local "Craigs", Blocket. Amazing condition!

Outside race

I got a mail from a guy, Emil. "I found your blog, I'm putting a TD in a Syncro. Can you help me out?".
Unfortunately not, but for sure I'll try to give a hand. So I put some valueable tools in the van including the motor lift and drove to the place where everything was happening. Emil is saving a Syncro with the ugliest Volvo conversion I've seen. But this guy seems to be the type that make things happen and he's a professional welder, so I'm pretty sure his pieces-from-4-different-vans collection will end up as a nice Syncro camper. To be continued!
The TD is out and I have another gearbox (might be an AAP) to play with. I also got my hands on a pair of rear springs that might be the extra stiff kind.

The bible has arrived

Verrry nice!

What is the clutch?

I'm running a solid ClutchNet disc. I was worried it was going to be too stiff but it's fine. Sometimes it bites a little bit but it's mostly when we've been heavy loaded. And by then it's time to use the first gear anyway (usually starting on 2d).
Oh by the way. Never forget the support bearing. The number is VW worldwide spare part ID.


EDIT!
Quite a few people ask me what model my clutch disc is. It's from a Swedish distributor of Clutch Net discs. It is a 228 mm Cush Lock disc with organic lining. The grip is fantastic but still driveable. If you search for KL13171 you will find it on Clutch Net's web site or call you local dealer.
(Volkswagen -> Beetle-Type IV  -> (1970-1971) -TYPE: 411E + 412 -> Clutch Discs -> KL13171)

Removing injectors is a pain

I have a home made heavy duty slide hammer to drive injectors out. Even though I hammered the third one massively it didn't come out until I heated the head with a heater gun for two minutes. These bastards really stick if they want to.
The reason I wanted them out is a suspicous knocking in my Vanagon. I think the first injector is dirty and causes the noise. Haven't decided if I should send these for a test/service first or just simply swap...

It should work...

..should I?
10 points to the one who figures out what this is all about. :-)

Everything is under control again :)

New cooler installed! 
I rinsed the cooling system with detergent, an old mechanic recommended me to do that. I filled the system up with fresh water mixed with "Ariel White" and drove around with it for an hour or so. I'll tell you it didn't work that well. A lot of oil was still there and came out as chunks when I flushed the system. I rinsed the system with soap and hot water for another hour (both forward and reverse direction) and I think it was as good as I could get it. 
Once again flushed with fresh water and filled up with red coolant. 

First check after driving there was a new layer of oil on the surface of the expansion tank. Not strange though as the coolant reach 90 deg C. I removed that layer of oil and after another session of driving it seems to be clear. 
I'm keeping an extra eye on the coolant and oil level, but I think it's all OK now. 110 km's of driving later and everything is smooth operating.

What to do next?

Noise reduction

For sure the open filter is generating most of the noise, I'll make a real filter box later on.

Mud flaps that also turns in between the wheel and the engine compartment and a front lip in front of the engine will make the underside noise to bounce away from the coupé. I know it works from a previous bus, will make it here too.

Except that, driving around and have fun! :)