It's running! :)

Back att http://www.vwkd.co.uk the member "13 Window deluxe" came with the idea to check that I might have the pump 180 degrees of. And guess what - he was so right!
How the heck could I miss that simple problem?! I had the solution in front of me all the time. First try after the adjustment and it started right away!

 

Now, the image I posted the other day with the pump position was wrong, I removed it so it's not fooling anyone. I'll take a new picture with correct info tomorrow.

Trying to get the thing running!

Hooked the engine up with the pickup battery outside the garage. Tried to fire it and - nope! 

The engine cranks and starts on starter gas, but I have only tried a small spray every time (not continuously).
The pump is pushing fuel to the first cylinder on TDC.
...which means that the stop solenoid is working as well.
Timing set according to Land Rover spec, 1.54 mm.
When the fuel lines are loosened at the injectores they spit fuel.

I see fuel in the return lines between the injectors.
I see no fuel in the main return line (but the fuel lines do spray).

It might be that there's still air in the nossles. I've read from other people that their engines got started after testing the injectors, and then they are filled with fuel. There might also still be air in the lines or in the injectors.  I'll open up the glow plugs and bleed one injector at the time to see if there's any difference.
More crankin' tomorrow...

Timing time!

Lately I've been assembling everything back onto the engine. It required some detective work to get the timing on the pump right. I mounted the belt wheel from the 1Z on the Landy pump and thought that the timing position would be the same. Oh no...

The timing was terrible and when I went back home to eat some late night dinner I did some googleing and then I found some clips on a very-known-tube-site when a guy changed timing belt on a Landy, the angle of the pump was really weird and got my attention. Back in the garage I checked the Landy wheel mount disc (the LR has a movable wheel for timing, the VW has a fixed wheel and a moveable pump instead) and there was a clear sign where the woodruff key had been and it was totally different from the VW.

 It all ended up with the timing being 180 degrees off from the VW pump. The woodruff key is now pointing straight towards the old VW timing hole on the bracket, and the timing hole in the belt wheel is totally opposite.

EDIT 27/7: This was all wrong, the pump was 180 degrees of! See later posts for correct info! 

I did a temporarly timing tool with a long soldering pin and my electronic calliper. Worked like a charm!