GGAAAAAAH!

The bloody bleeder vent for the rear brake broke on the right side! Now I can't bleed the brakes, and it will take hours to get it away. I have a solution for that, scrap the old ugly drum breaks and put the discs on!

A few days of vacation and then back to the garage in the end of next week. :)

New clutch pin

The clutch pin was in really bad condition and the gasser version is shorter. I made a new one.

Vw pedal wire into Landy pump

An M5 bolt with a nut to the bottom and some grinding - a simple copy of the VW pump wire mount.

New oil stick position

This my final position. It was h*ll to make it but at least I can check the oil without ripping the entire bed out...

Servo pump clearance.

Like this. I hate welding upside down.

Before one is done, next swap is already coming!

my friend Jesper, who had a Hamburg adventure, came to the conclusion that a bigger/newer engine is the only way to go. So it ends up with him keeping the head with all the stuff we took from my engine and during this autumn I'll source and AAZ for him. I really think he would benefit from a colder running TDI, but he doesn't want a Franken-build and I think the MOT will notify that the engine is too new if we add all the electrics.

AAZ it will be!

New left side mount and servo rework.

The left side mount conflicts with the turbo so a new has to be done. It came out a little bit ugly. The steel sheets of a good thickness was "short in stock". But hey, it does the work anyway...
I also found out that my super compact servo mount was sitting too high. The servo belt wheel was very tight to the engine bar. I took the old JX bracket and cut it of and made a new mount that fits to the TDI engine. Now it's ok but not as tight as before, but still - I think it was too tight.  I know other people had the same issue so it ended up with a customization of the engine bar as well. A cut out on one side and a reinforcement on the other. Now there's plenty of space for the pump.
The oil filler tube came really high compared to the rear hatch. After some input from thesamba.com and my friend David I think it's a combo of wrong pipe and the gasser AAP gearbox mount which is lower. I solved it with a cut and a weld. :-)

Hard pipe support

The fuel lines break of the vibrations. Don't forget to add support for them. I use thick cable ties and fuel rubber pipes that wrap the lines.

Coated handle

Lock filled with fiber putty, painted and two layers of 2K clear coat.

One last timing check

I knew that the timing wasn't perfect so I did it once again to make sure everything is good enough. I had to move the pump one step on the belt to have it perfect. It also made the holes in the belt wheel aligning with the bolts almost spot on! Me like that. :-)

Now, in to the bus again!