GGAAAAAAH!

The bloody bleeder vent for the rear brake broke on the right side! Now I can't bleed the brakes, and it will take hours to get it away. I have a solution for that, scrap the old ugly drum breaks and put the discs on!

A few days of vacation and then back to the garage in the end of next week. :)

New clutch pin

The clutch pin was in really bad condition and the gasser version is shorter. I made a new one.

Vw pedal wire into Landy pump

An M5 bolt with a nut to the bottom and some grinding - a simple copy of the VW pump wire mount.

New oil stick position

This my final position. It was h*ll to make it but at least I can check the oil without ripping the entire bed out...

Servo pump clearance.

Like this. I hate welding upside down.

Before one is done, next swap is already coming!

my friend Jesper, who had a Hamburg adventure, came to the conclusion that a bigger/newer engine is the only way to go. So it ends up with him keeping the head with all the stuff we took from my engine and during this autumn I'll source and AAZ for him. I really think he would benefit from a colder running TDI, but he doesn't want a Franken-build and I think the MOT will notify that the engine is too new if we add all the electrics.

AAZ it will be!

New left side mount and servo rework.

The left side mount conflicts with the turbo so a new has to be done. It came out a little bit ugly. The steel sheets of a good thickness was "short in stock". But hey, it does the work anyway...
I also found out that my super compact servo mount was sitting too high. The servo belt wheel was very tight to the engine bar. I took the old JX bracket and cut it of and made a new mount that fits to the TDI engine. Now it's ok but not as tight as before, but still - I think it was too tight.  I know other people had the same issue so it ended up with a customization of the engine bar as well. A cut out on one side and a reinforcement on the other. Now there's plenty of space for the pump.
The oil filler tube came really high compared to the rear hatch. After some input from thesamba.com and my friend David I think it's a combo of wrong pipe and the gasser AAP gearbox mount which is lower. I solved it with a cut and a weld. :-)

Hard pipe support

The fuel lines break of the vibrations. Don't forget to add support for them. I use thick cable ties and fuel rubber pipes that wrap the lines.

Coated handle

Lock filled with fiber putty, painted and two layers of 2K clear coat.

One last timing check

I knew that the timing wasn't perfect so I did it once again to make sure everything is good enough. I had to move the pump one step on the belt to have it perfect. It also made the holes in the belt wheel aligning with the bolts almost spot on! Me like that. :-)

Now, in to the bus again!

Coolant sensor to tdi adapter

The TDI coolant sensor vs the old JX sensor with adapter.

Jesper in panic mode

A friend of mine made a long trip with his bus, on the way back from Portugal (its 3400 km one way to Pt from here) the head gasket blew in Hamburg. The workshop tried to fix it but the gasket blew again. A new head was the only way to go and they offered a new for € 2000. And on top of that - the kids had to get back to Stockholm before the weekend...
A short term rental car, drive the family home, try to source a new head with no success. The car - rented in Hamburg - must get back. Jesper called me on the phone when we were heading for a pool adventure. "I can't find a head. I'm in panic. For real!"
As soon as we got back I started to take the head of from the old bus engine. Jesper was supposed to drive immediately to Hamburg when he had the parts. A 10 hours drive non stop.
First bolt made a loud cracking noise and I was 100 % sure my tool jumped. How could that happen?! I've been taking a number of heads off! J got really stressed up, drove back home to get his tool, only to find out it was the same size!
So we tried again and the same loud crack occured. But hang on, didn't the bolt move?.. It actually did and the noise wasn't the tool, it was the stretch bolt itself! I've never heard anything like it. All bolts came loose and J drove over the entire city for no reason. It only made his time window for the car shorter. Good for him it keeps him awake... :-)

Good luck J!

Re-timing

I decided to make the timing once again to make sure it's all ok. At the same time I drilled a small hole in the pressure plate when top dead center was spot on to the mark in the bellhousing.

Water hoses

When upgrading to a newer engine you need all the hoses from the old engine. Don't get rid of them!
The oil cooler must be turned 90 degrees and the thermostat housing must be used. The old thermostat hose is conflicting with the engine mount and the oil cooler matches the hoses if turned.

Rust protection

You know that really sticky smelly rust protection called body? I gun sprayed TWO cans of that under the van. :-)

TDI starter for T25/Vanagon adapter

I've made an adapter for a TDI starter to the 091 diesel bellhousing. The TDI starter exists in two different versions, I use the one in the picture, taken from a Golf -94 (1Z engine).
My adapter is 12 mm in thickness, half an inch (12.7 mm) will also work.

I also took the TDI starter apart and cleaned it and re-lubricated the planet gear. What you never should do is putting oil or grease on the solenoied inside. When it's cold outside it's enough to lock the steel cylinder and the starter will not initiate. 5-56, WD40 or similar at maximum. My local car electric guy recommends graphite powder.